HALF A CENTURY OF ELEGANCE

By Christina Grazia Poggi 

Born into a successful Italian family, Elsa Peretti studied in Florence and Switzerland before a short career as an architect in Milan. Shape and how it could be transformed into

a static motion always fascinated her, so it wasn’t long before she started designing jewelry that she would wear for herself. A natural beauty with a slender and tall frame, Peretti met a friend who encouraged her to try her hand at modeling in the late 60’s. In a short time, her new career brought her from the European catwalks to New York where she starred as a runway model while quietly producing jewelry for her own enjoyment... and for a few select friends. In the early 70’s she became part of the Studio 54 set that included designers like Halston,

Perry Ellis, Diane Von Furstenberg and Giorgio di Saint Angelo. Elsa was having the time of her life. She convinced her friend di Saint Angelo to allow her and other models to wear some of her pieces in one of his early runway shows and she quickly had style leaders everywhere asking where they could buy them. Halston, who would become one of her constant collaborators, convinced her that jewelry design needed her inquisitive eye, and she should speak with the famous retailer, Tiffany & Co. In 1974, Peretti would showcase what would become the retailers longest (and many would say) most success- ful collections. It is said that at one time, sales of Peretti designed pieces represented as much as 10% of the luxury retailer’s annual sales. 

THE OPEN HEART PENDANT

Possibly the most beloved of her collections,
the Open Heart pendant is elegantly pronounced, with just enough smooth curves and soft angles to make it “sexy” for women of all ages. Peretti credits the openness of the heart to the semi-abstract sculptures of Henry Moore, whose work included undulating forms transposed from the human body. The pendant, which gently hangs off-center is available in sterling, all shades of gold and embellished with sparkling diamonds.

THE BOTTLE DESIGN

Inspiration for Peretti’s work vary by design and by where her world of travel took her. Her first was

the minimalist Bottle design, inspired by the ceramic carafes young Italian girls used to carry gardenias thru the seaside village of Portofino. Once created in metal, Peretti knew she had an elegant design that would carry her for years on end.

THE BEAN PENDANT

In its most simple form, the Bean pendant epitomizes Peretti’s focus on sedentary movement. By placing a hole on each end of the bean, a simple chain slides through it, bringing the piece it’s fluidity of movement. Again, just as the Open Heart did, the Bean became a piece of jewelry that woman could wear each and every day.

Peretti went on to create designs and styles modeled after Snakes and Scorpions, inspired by their nature but with adjustable lengths and latches that define them as uniquely Peretti: giving women the option of creativity in their jewelry.

In the 1980’s, Peretti focused on the textiles she so fondly remembered in Italy and Spain to create The Mesh Collection, an assortment of earrings and necklaces that mirrored gold, spun into a woven-like fabric. Elegant yet intricate, it has remained timeless and collectable.

DIAMONDS BY THE YARD
Drawing on Peretti’s love of powerful and independent women, like herself, Tiffany asked her to create a collection that could be

attainable by most but include pieces that were aspirational as the customer became more established. For this, Peretti designed a simple necklace with 12 small diamonds spaced in uneven sections on a 36-inch chain, and as such became known as “Diamonds by The Yard.” Over the years, this became one of her collection icons as she began to vary the style by adding different sizes of diamonds and lengths of chain, and by doing so, met the desires of Tiffany to make diamonds wearable, versatile and accessible for its customers.

“You need to be able to go out on the street with your jewelry,” Ms. Peretti once told The Wall Street Journal. “Women can’t go around wearing $1 million.”

—Elsa Peretti 

BONE AND SPLIT
Perhaps her most enduring collection is that launched by Tiffany in 2024 to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of their partnership. The Bone and Split ring offerings are defined by sensuous contours that become one with the body, Tiffany describes the collection as “hallmarks of Elsa’s design ingenuity and craftsmanship”. Drawing inspiration from the groundbreaking Bone cuff design, first introduced in 1970, the rings are a nod to the sublime beauty found in nature. The sculptural form of the Bone cuff is drawn from Elsa’s visits as a young girl to a 17th-century Capuchin crypt in Rome and her time spent in Barcelona where she was inspired by Antoni Gaudí’s Casa Milà. Available in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver in both iterations, the designs create beautiful and bold statements for its customers. Adds Tiffany’s, “These unique creations pay homage to Elsa’s pioneering spirit.”